News

 Great German whites If you had to name the steepest vineyards in the world, which country would spring to mind? The answer is Germany - and for good reason. The country’s best vineyards are all on incredibly steep slopes of river valleys, the best known being the Mosel, which I cycled along for three days this month. Talk about a wow experience. The gradient of the region’s vineyards is so steep, it’s almost impossible to believe, even when it’s staring you in the face from your bicycle as you cycle along the Mosel River, which is home to the steepest vineyard on Earth – Calmont Klettersteig in the picturesque village of Bremm. Great wines come with great risk on these highly labour intensive vineyards. The gradient of this one (and, no doubt, many others) is 65 degrees. This makes vine planting, pruning and tending rather tricky, not to mention harvesting the grapes. It also means that pulleys and cable cars are essential tools of the wine trade here. Not that you see them at every turn in the river.   This is the second time I’ve visited the Mosel and it won’t be the last. Riesling is the most planted grape in Germany, occupying about 23 per cent of the country’s approximately 101,000 hectares of vineyards. Riesling is also the most planted grape in the Mosel, so it is king and queen in this dramatically beautiful region with its pretty villages and its beautiful wines, the best of which are so finely tuned that they over deliver more than any other wine style I know of. The best wines tend to be lighter in body and alcohol too, which is another plus. Due to climate change, this region’s winemakers now often pick their grapes earlier than they traditionally did. And since those grapes have higher oeschle (the German must-weight measurement, which determines the alcohol content of the wines), they also contain higher alcohol levels than in the past, so the wines are drier as a result. This doesn’t mean they are austere or high in alcohol. Far from it. Today many of the wines of the Mosel that used to contain 7% alcohol are now verging on 10% or 11%. Which is still significantly lower than most dry and off dry wines on the market today. The wine highlight of the three day cycle tour I did from Trier to Koblenz was a visit to Weingut Schloss Lieser. It was a blast from the past and a glimpse into the future at the same time. There we were 17 days ago visiting Lara Haag, who opened everything from a long line up of 2017 wines right back to a 14 year old wine; the 2004 Schloss Lieser Riesling Spatlese, which tasted medium dry, despite being firmly in the sweet camp with its 75 grams of residual sugar being super finely balanced by refreshing acidity. The majority of the wines she opened were dry. They often contained less 4 grams of residual grape sugar – which would have been really unusual for Mosel Riesling back when I first visited the region 17 years ago and met her grandfather, Wilhelm Haag of Weingut Fritz Haag, whose eldest son, Thomas, is Lara’s dad. Thomas began Weingut Schloss Lieser in 1997 in the village of Lieser. He has since acquired land holdings in many of the Mosel’s most revered vineyard sites, such as Wehlener Sonnenhur, Piesporter Goldtropfchen, Graacher Himmelreich (whose name, understandably when you taste the wines, means heaven), among many others. The jewel in his crown is a block in the nearby Niederberg Helden vineyard, just outside the village of Lieser. Thomas Haag is making dry Grosses Gewaches wines from this relatively large vineyard and it’s staggering to see that they sell for between $30 and $60 NZ, most of the time. This blew me away more than the wines themselves did. Here are these exceptional, concentrated, insanely delicious and affordable wines from some of the world’s great vineyards. Talk about a privilege to taste them all at the winery and to visit this region. Although, as Lara knew, it was also a massive relief to visit her mid afternoon when the blazing sun and 35+ degrees was starting to get us down just a tad. The Mosel is Germany’s best known wine region and is the longest tributary of the well known Rhine River. We cycled approximately 220 kms in three days, staying in wine villages along the river on the way; our luggage being delivered each day by the cycle tour company that provided our bikes, guide books and hotels. It was a pretty modest cost, all up, and would have been marginally more, had we the time to cruise the river in six to seven days, as most cyclists do. It’s one of my favourite places and I have planned to cycle the length of the river ever since my first visit there 17 years ago when my daughter was a toddler. Back then I bought a couple of bottles of German Riesling and opened one with her on her 18th birthday this year. It was the 2000 Weingut Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Auslese with 7% alcohol. It was stunning. Medium dry, fresh as a daisy, luscious like liquid honey but with a dry-ish finish and amazing flavours of limes, green apples, ripe peaches and honey. An incredible wine. Just like the region it comes from.   Buy the wines of Schloss Lieser and Fritz Haag   The wines of the Mosel are built to last, like the vineyards they come from.   We have both Fritz Haag and Schloss Lieser wines in store at Regional and we look forward to introducing you to them.   In the meantime, here are a couple of snaps of the meandering and marvellous Mosel River.   2016 Schloss Lieser Mosel Niederberg Helden Riesling Spatlese $55.99 Schloss Lieser is one of the owners of the great Niederberg Helden vineyard in the Mosel, which is home to 90 year old vines on slate soils which provide great ripening for this rich and powerful Riesling, which can age, if you have willpower…   2016 Schloss Lieser Mosel Neiderberg Helden Auslese $84.99 Amazing intensity and so refreshing it’s hard to believe it even contains alcohol… every sip contains massive pleasure.   2018 Schloss Lieser Mosel SL Riesling $35.99 Zesty fresh Riesling from grapes grown on all of the vineyards owned by the family… light, long and lovely.

By Joelle Thomson It was a treat this week to have Central Otago winemaker Rudi Bauer in store from his Central Otago winery, Quartz Reef – a rarity in this country as an estate winery. This means all the grapes used in the wines are grown on land owned by the winemaker; in this case, that means the Quartz Reef Bendigo vineyard, which Bauer planted in Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Gruner Veltliner. He studied viticulture and winemaking in his homeland of Austria for nine years before coming to New Zealand in 1985 to work at Mission Vineyards for four years until 1989. He then fell in love, married and moved to Central Otago. Since then, he has become a certified biodynamic winemaker. So, it’s not only the flavour that has a great feel-good factor, but Bauer’s philosophy – “To leave the soil in better condition than I found it, for the next generation.” This year he launched his first Blanc de Blancs bubbly. It’s a vintage wine from the very good 2013 vintage – a stellar year all over New Zealand. The release date for the new and outstanding Quartz Reef 2013 Blanc de Blancs is 1 September this year. In the meantime, head to Regional to enjoy the great Quartz Reef Brut – one of our top selling wines, which grows in quality from one year to the next.

James Millton is passionate, you can feel it in the air when he talks, and you can certainly taste it in his wines - wines made with intent, from his organic and biodynamic, roots up kingdom in Gisborne, where nature is in balance and the theme is essentially one of love and gratitude. James seems to work with a straightforward approach to life - breaking things down into simple components. Sweet, salt, sour and astringent; the four main flavours that drive how he shapes his Riesling, Chenin Blanc Chardonnay and Viognier respectively. This gives these wines a pleasantly distinctive feel when tasted together, from the sweet yet balanced Spätlese styled Riesling (with an unnoticeable 47g/l residual sugar) to the grippy, phenolic umami and sour qualities of the Riverpoint Viognier. The distinct personalities of these wines also fit happily into a theory of four key personalities we typically encounter in life; sanguin, choleric, melancholic and phlegmatic. Combine this with James’ four vineyards; Opou, Te Arai, Riverpoint and Clos de Ste Anne and you realise James is simply working with the different wine characters that exist in his community, and coaxing the best out of them through an understanding of who they are and how they fit into a bigger picture. This is also a rather clever something for everyone approach to winemaking, which is a sound way of trying to please everyone. We all identify with one of these personality traits, as we identify with either the protagonist, antagonist, confidant or love interest in a film, so in theory, there is a wine for all of us in his portfolio. As James puts it, you’re either a Poo, Piglet, Eeyore or Tigger… it’s a simple as that. James even applies these principles to how he picks his vineyard team at harvest, with a belief that the general feeling in the team translates heavily into how the wines end up tasting, an extrapolation of the fact that many winemakers often remember vintages by the team that helped pick and make the wine. James even cites studies on how projected emotions have been shown to affect the crystallization patterns in water when frozen, sounds whacky, but we don’t know what we don’t know I guess, and it wasn’t long ago that people scoffed at the application of biodynamics in wine making. Now, it is common in most respected vineyards and practiced by even the most traditional such as DRC and Chateau La Tour. As we finished on four reds including two Pinots and two Syrahs from the Clos de Ste Anne vineyard, the topic of conversation changed to that of irrigation in NZ wine regions, the carbon cost of winemaking and climate change in general. People have often scoffed at the warmth and humidity of Gisborne from a winemaking perspective, but as James puts it, these are two factors key to life and he uses both elements to his advantage, working with them rather than against them - a reason why his wines are dry farmed and a true reflection of their terroir. Whether it be the application of fungal tea in the canopy, or the active promotion of mycorrhizal fungi at root level, James has learnt there is always a natural way to work with mother nature. Although he’s unsure how climate change will play out, he’s had an each way bet on a few varietals with a  view to how they will respond to increased warmth. One thing’s for sure, if anyone has the know how needed to naturally adapt to a changing world - it’s James Millton. The Millton wines are available at Regional Wines

With ages of 2 to 22 years old from an array of casks spanning first fill and refill Oloroso to PX and bourbon, alcohol levels between 43% and 64% and no fewer than four regions present, this was a mystery tasting that would surely scream individuality despite a theme of Sherry.

Blog… A French affair…   This week’s blog highlights the most popular French wine at last Saturday’s Bastille Day tasting. A white wine stole the show at last Saturday’s Bastille Day tasting in store with our wine team – and it’s a surprising hero of a white too because it comes from a French wine region best known for hearty reds - the Cotes du Rhone. Every warm Mediterranean climate needs its refreshing crisp whites too, however, so perhaps it’s no surprise to find that the 2016 Paul Jaboulet Cotes du Rhone Blanc was everybody’s favourite wine of the afternoon. Like many southern French whites, this wine contains a fun, eclectic and generally unheard of mixture of different grape varieties – it’s made from 50% Grenache Blanc, 20% Marsanne, 20% Viognier and 10% Bourboulenc. And how does it taste? Full bodied, crisp, dry and peachy – that’s Viognier for you – but where does the fresh crisp acidity come from? The answer is: Bourboulenc, which is a high acid, late ripening grape which adds powerful citrus and floral aromas to southern French white wines. It’s best known as a blending grape in white Chateauneuf du Pape and is also planted in the Languedoc and Minervois appellations in southern France. A little obviously goes a long way because all of the other components in this lovely dry, full bodied white wine, tend to be low in acidity and provide wines with body and lots of flavour. All up, this white is a great alternative for Chardonnay drinkers, who will enjoy its full bodied, weighty style, its peachy taste and its somewhat different flavour profile.

As I disinfected the kitchen floor adjacent to the tasting room a few hours prior to the Monday tasting, I realised I was getting my first peat-like experience of the night. But was it the salty tang of coastal peat or the warm embrace of earthy mainland peat? Soon I would have the answer, and over the two nights, learn a valuable lesson in accuracy. Peat's a funny old thing. So many of us fall in love with whisky through a chance encounter with a massively peaty dram (my first true love was the Ardbeg 10) and yet so many of us seem to grow away from it over time. That said, it's hard to ignore that mercurial quality, unachievable by cask alone that only peat can bring. This selection was pleasantly atypical, with a lot of cask on show from Sherry to Bordeaux to Port and it seemed there was something for everyone. First in the line-up was the Laphroaig 16yo 2001 from OMC 50% - start as you mean to continue I thought as I poured them out, and this whisky was truly a fine yardstick against which the others were measured. Finishing third overall - this was the ashen remains of a toffee-apple fallen into a bonfire somewhere on a beach in Islay. Next was the Caol Ila Signatory 2009 8yo UCF 46%, a curious, sweet everyperson whisky, in many respects, one to quaff whilst watching the news after work perhaps, but it was easily outmuscled by the more aggressive, cask influenced, bigger peat numbers on display and finished last. Third in the line-up was our mystery - or mysteries I should say on this occasion (more on that later) and which completed an opening trio of more conventional peat - lighter in colour and unmistakably Islay. Then things got darker - in every respect. The Elements of Islay Bw7 and Ledaig Gordon & Macphail 2004/2017 56.6% vied for 1st and 2nd over the two nights but were polar opposites - the Bw7 a silky sweet and complex sherried number - reminiscent of a pair of freshly polished Italian leather shoes on the console of a Rolls Royce (something we're all familiar with) and the Ledaig a grunty, earthy, dirtier whisky, tasted from a glencairn pulled from the coffee cup holder above an ashtray on the console of an old Holden. Glorious stuff with everything you'd want from a glass of peat. Then came the Ballechin 'Staight From The Cask' 2005 11yo Bordeaux 53.4%, with its red berry wine notes and sour cherries, and which divided the room (there's always one). Was it disgusting or disgustingly good? I didn't like it, I loved it (!) as much as I did the Oamaruvian, of which it reminded me! Finished 5th. And that leaves one - the Glendronach Peated Port Finish 46%. Leave the best to last as some people say, but people can be wrong. A Glendronach fan amongst us visibly wept at the thought of it, but it's fair to say, you don't really go Glen-d for peat or port! That said, it really grew on me over the two nights, another everyday whisky to sip in the bath after a long day at work - but finished 7th. So, those of you with an eye for detail would have noticed a whisky placing last and another placing 7th, which is fairly atypical in a lineup of seven, but easily explained by the mystery of the mysteries. A $400 whisky no less, that on the first night silenced the room as we all cogitated its splendour, but on the second night had us struggling for words. Both were 20 year old Laphroaigs from Adelphi distilled in 1996, but coming from two different casks they were remarkably different. Monday night's weighed in at 57%, was buxom and full with a remarkable depth of flavour and some real grunt. Tuesday's, coming in at 54%, was lighter and more savoury, with a certain elegance for sure, but not showing the complexity of its predecessor. I'd love to say that this had been an intentional examination into the implications of single casks, but it was actually a balls up - and looking at the packaging (see the image on the blog front), you can see how it came about. However, this serendipitous error did provide a perfect example of why the cask is so important, and why, whenever you can, it is great to taste before you buy. Write up from Daniel's Mystery tastings on July 2 and 3 coming soon... Sláinte

Safeguarding the reputation of New Zealand’s biggest wine region is the aim of a new group that launched in June calling itself Appellation Marlborough Wine (AMW). The group aims to protect the authenticity of wine made in Marlborough, one of the world’s biggest Sauvignon Blanc regions – Marlborough has 25,135 hectares of grapes which is 67.7% of this country’s total. The vast majority of grapes in Marlborough are Sauvignon Blanc, which contrasts closely with France; the world’s biggest producer of Sauvignon Blanc with approximately 26,800 hectares planted nationwide, mostly in the Loire Valley and Bordeaux. The new Appellation Marlborough Wine group has taken many cues from France’s appellation system, which legally defines geographic borders and other criteria of specific wine regions, including certain specific grape growing and winemaker methods (which differ between regions) as well as harvest guidelines and where the wine can be bottled. The new AMW group is an incorporated society and has so far attracted 36 of the region’s 139 wine producers to adhere to its stipulations. Another 10 wine producers have also expressed interest. These include using 100% locally grown grapes, which must be grown as part of a recognised sustainable viticultural (grape growing) programme. The aim is to attract as many wine producers as possible and to safeguard Marlborough’s wine reputation, says AMW chair Ivan Sutherland, who was one of the first to plant grapes in the region’s modern wine history and is also a founder and co-owner of Dog Point Vineyards. All Appellation Marlborough Wine must also be bottled in New Zealand.

Martinborough Vineyards tasting with winemaker Paul Mason - June 22 2018Thanks Paul Mason from Martinborough Vineyards for a fascinating look back at some of the first wines to put Pinot on the New Zealand wine map. Individualistic, consistent and delicious are the words that sprang to mind at last night's tasting at Regional Wines & Spirits with Mason, who led 23 customers (including yours truly, on behalf of the store - to introduce Mason) through a fascinating historic snapshot of Martinborough Vineyard wines. The winery began in 1980 and was one of the first four vineyards in Wellington’s nearest wine region. The tasting was a great opportunity to see wines that have been remarkably consistent, despite a rollercoaster of vintage weather variation, three different winemakers and a change in ownership. The three different winemakers have clearly had similar ideas and are obviously responsible for carrying the style consistently – it’s an elegant style, for wont of a better word. Tasting highlights We began with three whites; Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. It was the Riesling and Chardonnay that gained the biggest fans in the room; both wines had noticeably fresh, crisp acidity which balanced the bells (15 grams of residual sugar in the Riesling) and whistles (creamy malolactic work in the Chardonnay.The first wine was Riesling, which is the only grape that is not estate grown but is rather bought in from the nearby Jackson Block, situated on the left hand side of the road in to Martinborough. The winery used to produce a wide range of Riesling styles. Today Manu Riesling is the only one made and the 2017 vintage was from a challenging year, in which botrytis played a role in the wine - made from grapes harvested in three different picks. 2017 Martinborough Manu RieslingA medium dry style with 15 grams of residual sugar, which tastes drier than the word ‘medium’ may imply. It is well balanced with high acidity and dialed up intensity of flavour with ginger, lemon grass and lemon zest. It’s medium bodied with medium acid, about 10.5% ABV and a long finish. 2017 Martinborough Vineyards Sauvignon BlancIntense aromas of fresh green herbs, green apples, medium body and long finish. Refreshing. 2016 Martinborough Vineyards ChardonnayFresh and full bodied with recognizable creamy flavours balanced by lively acidity and spicy appeal from the use of 25% new oak to mature this wine. 2014 Martinborough Vineyard Syrah ViognierThe two grapes in this wine were co-fermented and it includes a smidgeon of Viognier at 3%. A popular style with the tasters. 2016 Martinborough Vineyards Te Tera Pinot Noir  Really good Pinot Noir for the price with earthy flavours, light body, refreshingly lively acidity – the hallmark of Pinot Noir – and a lovely fruity appeal. 2015 Martinborough Vineyard Pinot NoirA very small vintage from a low crop year due to poor flowering, so the flavours are of concentrated red fruit with earthy mushroom notes and a long finish. I loved this wine, which reminds of the very first Martinborough Vineyards Pinot Noir I ever tasted back in the mid 1990s. 2013 Martinborough Vineyard Pinot NoirOne of the best vintages for Pinot Noir, says winemaker Paul Mason, due to the fact the year was so warm and dry so there was low to no irrigation and the grapes were naturally well balanced. This wine is developing with earthy notes but still clearly has a long life ahead. 2009 Martinborough Vineyard Pinot NoirA very hot year (hottest ever in Martinborough with 39 degrees in January following the Melbourne bushfires) which then turned cool and wet at harvest. This was quite a savoury wine early on and winemaker Paul Mason says it’s been interesting to watch it evolve further in that direction.It made me want to reach for the kitchen and make mushroom risotto… 2013 Martinborough Vineyard Marie ZelieTiny volumes, 12 to 15 months in oak and a couple more years of bottle age are part of the story of this reserve Pinot from Martinborough Vineyard. Winemaker Paul Mason is not aiming to make a big statement wine with the Marie Zelie Pinots and since they are only made in certain years, he says it’s important to retain consistency as much as possible. So this wine is, like its little sibling above, an earthy style which is a step up in body, acidity and length. It’s named after Marie Zelie, a Frenchwoman who planted the first vineyard in the Wairarapa in the 1890s and then, due to a combination of phylloxera and near prohibition, the vineyard was pulled out. Maries’ great niece married Derek Milne, who was one of the founders of Martinborough Vineyard. The 2013 vintage saw only 5 barrels of this wine made; only 1% of the winery’s Pinot production.  2006 Martinborough Vineyard Marie ZelieThis was a pretty warm vintage with deeper colour, higher tannins and richness of flavour. Far fuller bodied and more robust; a very different style for Martinborough Vineyards and one that is immediately appeal and lush. Great to see what different vintages produce. Martinborough Vineyards fact file 1980 - the year the winery began with Russell Schultz as the first winemaker. 1986 - Larry McKenna takes over as winemaker.2004 - the year that Paul Mason joined as assistant winemaker to Claire Mulholland2014 - the winery was sold to Foley Family Vineyards, which also owns Te Kairanga Wines in Martinborough, Wharekauhau Lodge on the southern Wairarapa coast and Lighthouse Gin.

Lower alcohol wine is growing. The world wants lower alcohol wines and it wants the good stuff, says Dr John Forrest, who just arrived back in New Zealand after a global tour of Sweden, the United Kingdom, New York and Ontario, at which he opened his lower alcohol wines. Earlier this month he cruised into Regional to taste his lower alcohol wines with our team of wine experts, who were impressed by the balance of flavour, body and alcohol in these wines. Note the word ‘lower’, as opposed to ‘low’, which can only refer technically to drinks that contain 1.15% ABV (alcohol by volume). The Marlborough winemaker began making lower alcohol wines in 2006. His first one was the now famous Doctors’ Riesling. (The use of the apostrophe indicates more than one doctor since both John and his wife, Birgid Forrest, are doctors.) The Doctors’ brand is now solely devoted to lower alcohol wine styles and he has added a lower alcohol Sauvignon Blanc, Rosé and Pinot Noir to the range. “It’s a fine line making these styles of wine because it’s about keeping the sugar low enough and the acidity high enough, without compromising flavour,” said Dr John, on a flying visit to Wellington earlier this month. We were impressed by the four wines in the Doctor’s range, and with his philosophy behind the wines. “You can play around with the leaf area on the vines and photosynthesis with white wine, but with Pinot Noir there’s a certain amount of sugar you need for colour and tannin development but that window is very narrow.”Wine Wednesday this week… We will open a new Doctors’ Riesling alongside a nine year old, which amply shows just how fantastically well these wines can age… not that most of us give them half a chance; the Doctors’ Riesling is super delicious from the moment it’s bottled. Come in and taste the 2007 Forrest Estate Doctors’ Riesling, which was sent in to us specially for our resident Riesling fanatic Joelle Thomson to open to show how well it can age… Wine Wednesday runs from 4pm to 7pm every week in store… turn up at your leisure to taste these outstanding wines.

Did you know that Rioja accounts for 30% of the export volume of Spanish DO (geographical indication) wines? The northern Spanish wine region is by far the best known of all wine areas on the Iberian Peninsula and we have been searching for a range of Riojas that clearly shows the step up between reserva and gran reserva wines and with that thought in mind, we have bought a bunch of beauties from Bodegas Muriel. The wines arrived in store this week and we are thrilled to have them. It’s an old brand but a total newcomer here at Regional Wines & Spirits. Bodegas Muriel was founded in 1926 by Don José Murúa Villaverde in the village of Elciego in Rioja Alavesa, an area that is well known for its chalky and clay-sandy soils. These soils retain moisture during the winter months and, because they are so dense, they retain water, which then helps aid the vines in their growing season during summer when rainfall is low.  The wines of Bodegas Muriel are imported to New Zealand by MacVine International, which also specialises in some of the most outstanding German Rieslings available in this country and on our store shelves, but that’s another story.  Come and check out these beautiful new Riojas, which are also super affordable from the modern Muriel Blanca, which is made from Spanish white grapes Viura (also known as Macabeo) and Verdejo (95%/5%) all the way up to the top reds.   Bodegas Muriel wines are on a barrel in our Spanish wine section… come in on and talk to the team about these stunners from Rioja.

Remember back at school when you didn't get picked for the footie or netball team, and your mum said to you, “Don’t worry darling - you have strengths in other areas"? Well, this tasting was exactly that, a bunch of geeky whiskies with strength of flavour, not ABV, showing brain, not braun, and a slight naivety befitting their young age. And then the 24yo Balblair stepped into the mix and bullied them all into submission, stole their pocket money (whilst smoking a fag) and got picked for the Best of the Best footie team in the same instance. Someone has to lose these tastings, (gosh that sounds like my mum too!) and on this occasion it was the Fettercairn - its rubbery, struck match nose, leather and pepper proving a tad too much for many, but for me its undisclosed wine barrel influence (that could literally be anything from Liebfraumilch to Pedro Jimenez?!) had given it grunt, texture and spice, and was that a hint of perplexing peat in the mix too?? 6th, 5th and 4th place were taken by the Glenlivet, Mortlach and Manochmore respectively, three subtle and similarly minded whiskies that certainly demanded thought, and there was nothing between them in the scores. Interestingly, the seven whiskies were poured in different orders across the two nights, and yet the scores remained remarkably similar, and four whiskies placed identically at the two tastings. Proof that Wellington really does have a collective palate perhaps? Third was our mystery, on this occasion the 14 Year Old Balvenie Caribbean Cask - a rum chap if ever there were and which had everyone in suspense until the reveal. Second was my favourite of the night, the 1997 Imperial - made a century after the distillery was opened and the year before it was mothballed (it is now the site of Dalmunach Distillery – have a look at it online, it’s a beautiful building). As befitting a ghost distillery, this was a haunting mouthful of softly fruited sherry, like silk on the palate. Say what you will about cask strength whiskies, but sometimes there's absolutely nothing better than that the palate caressing feel of a perfectly balanced 43% whisky. And that brings us to the winner. A 49.6% whisky masquerading as a standard strength - the big kid at the toddler’s party that knocks the little-uns off the bouncy castle leaving them crying on the floor. But what a dram - ginger, molasses, sherry, leather and burnt Seville oranges, cut and dried, placed in a tea bag and left to steep for just too long. Marvelous stuff - just hope I can find three bottles for best of the best*! How they placed... 1) Balblair Gordon & Macphail 1993/2017 49.6% 700ml2) Imperial Gordon & Macphail 1997/201743% 700ml3) Balvenie 14 Yo Caribbean Cask 43%4) Mannochmore Gordon & Macphail 1996/2017 46% - Available in store5) Mortlach Gordon & Macphail 15yo 43% - Available in store6) Signatory Glenlivet 2007 10 Yo 46% - Available in store7) Hepburn's Choice Fettercairn 9yo 46 - Available in store Sláinte *Not looking good - anyone got three spare bottles??

Another great semi-blind lineup picked from the finest cask strength whiskies of Dramfest and presented by Daniel McLaren Moon at Regional Wines. Heads and shoulders above the rest, and comfortably winning over the two nights was Glen Scotia’s Victoriana. A whisky finished in charred oak that shows beautiful depth and hints of cocoa, toffee, burnt caramel, ginger and custard. Benromach’s Dramfest 2018 bottling came in second with its pipe tobacco and peat smoke inspired bacon and fish cake notes, that balanced handsomely against waves of sweet malt. The mystery whisky placed third – on this occasion the Glenmorangie Astar, a whisky crafted in the likeness of Bourbon, aged in oak hewn from slow-grown trees of the Ozark Mountains of Missouri. A veritable confectionery store on the nose with Eskimos, bubble gum and sherbet interlaced with custard and vanilla – a cracking little whisky showing some restraint on the palate, even at 52.5%. The Inchgower, Deanston and Linkwood were victims of the blind tasting scenario in many ways – their subtlety, softness and savouriness swept aside by some of the bigger, bolder, richer whiskies on show - as is often the case when tasting blind. And finally the Oarmaruvian came last, but had the room very much divided picking up some high scores among a majority of mid scores. This whisky created some buzz at Dramfest and for me its vinous qualities were quite something, with a high acid and tannic structure making it comparable to a 56% bottle of Barolo – great fun. All these whiskies are available from Regional Wines and Spirits – but be quick as supplies are limited. Here's how they placed. Glen Scotia 'Victoriana' 51.5% - $119.99 Benromach 'DramFest 2018 Bottling' 2005 / 2017 #241 60% - $149.99 Mystery Whisky – Glenmorangie Astar 52.5% - $154.99 Inchgower 'Old Malt Cask' 1995 / 21 years old 50% - $185.99 Deanston 'Old Malt Cask' 1995 / 21 years old 50% - $182.99 Linkwood Cadenhead 1992 / 24 years old 54.9% - $193.99 NZ Whisky Collective Oamaruvian 18 years old 55.8% - $173.50

Rod McDonald Wines – Wine Tasting at Regional WinesBy John ShearlockIt was a diverse selection of wines that Rod McDonald opened at Regional Wines in February, through which he was able to highlight his diverse array of winemaking techniques and vineyard sites whilst showing what both can offer to the wines he makes. The tasting kicked off with Rod’s One Off Albariño, made with fruit from the first official vintage from new vines at Bridge Pa. This was clean, crisp and bone dry, showing complexity from lees work and saline hints; befitting an Albariño from Rías Baixas, on which it was styled. His cheeky Chiaretto Sangiovese rosé charmed us next with its gentle red fruit flavours, which were balanced by lees derived characteristics.With our palates primed, varietal comparisons across some of the RMW lines began in earnest, and started with the One Off organic Pinot Gris and the Te Awanga Pinot Gris. Made with fruit from the same coastal site, these two wines are worlds apart in style, with the One Off gently whispering hints of Pinot Grigio through its bony dryness and mineral hints, and the Te Awanga shouting proudly of its kiwi provenance - higher residual sugar, higher acidity, higher alcohol and more fullness of flavour in general. When pushed to choose, it was the latter that the room preferred.Rod's Chardonnays came under the microscope next, with the 2016 Te Awanga tasted next to the 2016 Quarter Acre. Both are 100% Mendoza clone, but from different sites. The Te Awanga wine was made with grapes from vines situated inland, versus the Quarter Acre fruit which comes from the coastal Haumoana site. The wines were also made with a very different intent. The Te Awanga was round and gentle with a medium body, befitting the long hang times at that vineyard site - expressive stone fruit and citrus flavours integrated nicely with toasty oak and gentle acidity. The oak appeared more prominently on the rich long finish. Conversely, the Quarter Acre, from the cooler coastal site was bright and steely with higher acidity and had a reductive gun flint nose from a full solid approach at ferment. The balance was spot on, the reductive qualities being cleverly balanced by lees work, fruit concentration and oak.The Syrahs showed similar contrasts across the brands - once again with a soft fruit driven approachable Te Awanga being countered by the savoury line, big tannins and mineral crunch of the 2016 Quarter Acre. This wine follows hot on the heels of the multi-award winning 2015 Quarter Acre Syrah, and although certainly showing its youth, Rod’s opinion was that it was showing better than the 2015 at the same age. A trinity of Syrahs was completed by the 2015 Trademark which was only recently bottled. There is a composure and tangible self-belief that the 2015 Syrahs from the Hawke's Bay seem to possess - almost like the two great vintages before have given the vines and winemakers confidence to really sing, and this is very evident in the Trademark, which is a beautifully delineated and pure wine, with bright fruit, keen acidity and fine tannins. This is a wine for the cellar, but approachable even at this young age, thanks to its sheer fruit concentration.The tasting finished with the One Off Gewürztraminer, a fabulous sticky with heaps of complex botrytised flavours and plenty of natural acid to balance the 120 g/l of residual sugar.It is hard not to be charmed by both Rod and his wines. He talked openly and passionately about wine and his belief in the future of Chardonnay and Syrah in the Hawke’s Bay. In fact, he's done the maths on this topic and thinks it will take a mere $270 million to replant the Hawke’s Bay with only Chardonnay and Syrah. On the strength of his wines, you would have to agree, it would be a sound investment.

Carmenere is Chile’s biggest claim to mystery wine fame. It was once thought of as a deep purple coloured variant of Merlot that had somehow found a wild and flavoursome new lease of life in Chile, but when a French grape buster by the name of Jean Michel Bousiquot got wind of this, something smelt fishy, or perhaps we should say, it smelt grapey but not as you’d expect it. Boursiquot is a French ampelographer, which means his job is vine identification and in 1994 he travelled to Merlot to discover what this dark coloured Merlot was really all about. Upon seeing the mystery grape, he immediately identified it as Carmenere; a late ripening, dark coloured French black grape that originates in Bordeaux and nearly died out in france following phylloxera in the late 1980s.Mystery solved.Today, Chile is the world’s HQ of Carmenere and Bordeaux retains small plantings of this interesting black grape variety, which is used to add colour and tannin to many Bordeaux reds, but the best winemakers there tend to use it only in good vintages small quantities.Chile, on the other hand, makes many 100% Carmeneres, such as our Wine Wednesday - 2015 De Martino Estate Carmenere from the Valle del Maipo - usually $21.99 and on special this week for $18.99.

A taste of Sicilia in New Zealand... Italian wine importer Marco Nordio is the new official importer of Benanti wines to New Zealand. He is pictured above (left) with Salvino Benanti at Regional Wines & Spirits in Wellington this week, prior to a tasting of two Benanti wines. These are the gateway wines to the Benanti range - and are Sicily's passport to the wine world. Regional Wines & Spirits will soon have Benanti Rovittello in store; this is one of Sicily’s top red wines and most highly regarded from Mt Etna. 2016 Benanti Etna Bianco DOC 12% ABV This is 100% Carricante, was fermented in stainless steel, where it went through a little malolactic fermentation to soften its naturally high acidity, and was then aged on lees to add a little complexity. The wine laws on Mt Etna allow producers to blend Carricante with the lighter tasting Catarrato grape, but Salvino Benanti says he and his family prefer the sharper, crisper, drier flavours of 100% Carricante. They like to age it in bottle for a few months prior to releasing the wine, which is medium bodied with zesty fresh, but balanced acidity. The Carricante grape can be oaked or unoaked; Salvino prefers those with low to no oak. My mind and palate agree whole heartedly. This is a stunner; so fresh and refreshing. 2015 Benanti Etna Rosso DOC 13% ABV  The family who own this winery sets a high benchmark for their entry level wines so that people get a good impression of Sicilian wine. This wine is 80/20 Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio grapes and is fermented mostly stainless steel with about 25% of the wine then spending nine months in second fill neutral French barriques. This is an entry level wine and the 2015 was a rainy vintage on Etna, so there is a little more dilution than usual in alcohol; the wine is 13% whereas it is usually about 13.5% ABV. The Benanti story This year is the first time that Salvino Benanti has visited New Zealand and he was here to introduce his family's wines from Mt Etna; Sicily's highest mountain and Europe's most active volcano. His family moved to Sicilia from Bologna in 1734 when they were given land there and, over the past two centuries, they have  developed a strong interest in wine. His father was one of the first to start a winery on Etna, which he founded in 1988. Back then there was one other winery on the mountain. Today there are 176 brands. Despite the proliferation of labels, the hard core of Etna wine producers remains around 30, of which Benanti is one of the best known and most highly respected, thanks to being in early and forging a name as a producer of high quality wines. To say that I was impressed the first time I tried an Etna wine is to make a wild understatement. It was about six years ago that I managed to track down a bottle of Tenuta Benanti Rovittello Etna Rosso, which was being imported to New Zealand by Oh So Pretty Wines, which is owned by Andrew Hedley. That wine blew me away. I can't recall its vintage (where was my wine database back then?) but it was about eight years old at the time and I loved the way its pale ruby colour completely betrayed its incredibly powerful combination of staunch full body, tangy acidity, truffly-mushroomy flavours and a fresh cherry bite on its long finish. The wine is a blend of Nerello Mascalese (90%) and Nerello Cappuccio (10%) grapes, grown in the Rivittello sub zone of Castiglione di Sicilia. Talk about silky. Eat your heart out, Burgundy, Barolo or Barbaresco

Join Joelle for Wine Wednesdays, 4pm to 7pmJoelle Thomson is our resident writer and the Wine Programme Director at Regional Wines & Spirits and every week she runs Wine Wednesday in store, which is a free, fun, low key tasting every week at Regional Wines & Spirits in Elice Street, by the Basin Reserve in Wellington. Tasting starts around 4pm and runs til 7pm every week. Best of all, no bookings are needed. Just turn up, taste an interesting new wine and grab a bargain buy because every wine we taste has a discount for that night only. Regional Wines & Spirits is Wellington's largest and longest established independent wine, beer and spirits store, and Joelle's role is Wine Programme Director, a fancy title that means she does everything from hosting tastings to writing blogs, in store information and shelf talkers to upping the ante of the store's tasting programme, alongside our other expert staff here at Regional. Wine Wednesdays are a great way for customers and staff alike to try new and interesting wines and the majority of them are under $20, so super affordable for mid week enjoyment. Come along and join us... This week’s wine is a cheeky little Sicilian red called La Mura Nero d'Avola; come and check it out with Joelle any time from 4pm in store - and it’s free…

Hats off to Michael, Stephen and the whole team for an excellent Dramfest 2018. Great venue, big crowd but still able to get to the front of each stand to sample the wares. Water stations at the ready, quick fire masterclass sessions, hospitable hosts at the shop and over 300 whiskies in the programme. I missed out on the 25 year old Laphroaig and the new Amrut spectrum but pretty much NZ malts hit my top and hit my bottom scores, with some really crazy bottlings all in between. I worked very hard to search for the best samples on behalf of the Wellington tasting programme and here are my top 10 whiskies from three different categories (for a full breakdown of the 75 I tasted, email me at danielmclarenmoon@hotmail.com)My Cask Strength Picks (over 50%)9.4 Caperdonich Cadenheads 1977 39yo sherry butt 50.4%: rum, thick, treacle, sticky, stays sweet, tobacco, lollie pops, rock candy9.3 "The Oamaruvian" 16yo Double Wood 55.8% Cask 571: sherry, wow, undies9.25 Ben Nevis Signatory 1991 26yo 56.5%: salt n vinegar corn chip, onion n tomato salsa, P.K, sausages, long, fantastic9.25 Glengoyne Cadenhead 1996 21yo 52.9%: undies, grass, coffee, onion9.2 Daluaine SMWS 41.101 "Hard To Put Down" 28yo 49.5%: dirty rum, felafel, woody9.2 Deanston OMC 1995 21yo 50%: wow, sweet, simple, lemon,. green leaves, sunshine, toffee, honey, exotic9.1 Glenfarclas FCR 2000-25.1.2017 refill sherry butt #396 60.1%: strong9.1 Glenfarclas FCR 1999 1st fill sherry butt 6322 60%: dirty, strong, fickle, tobacco9.1 SMWS "Exotic Cargo" Blended Malt 10yo 1st Fill Sherry 2006 50%: raisins, delicious, burnt toffee9.1 Breath of Speyside Adelphi 2006 10yo 64.7%: sweet, lusciousMy Classic Strength Picks (under 50%)9.2 Balblair 1990 Vintage 46%: sewing machine9.2 Balblair G&M 1993-2017 49.6%: asparagus, nappies, herbal, old, tannic, liquorice, woody, molasis9.2 Invergordon 42yo That Boutique-y Whisky Co 48% Batch 15: fantastic, wood, old shed9.1 Mannochmore G&M 1996 - 2017 46%: lovely, sweet, oaky9.1 Benriach 22yo Moscatelle 46%: raisins, thick, rich9.0 Imperial G&M 1997 43%: coffee, liquor, dishwash8.9 Macallan Cadenheads 27yo 1990 refill sherry hogs 41.4%: copper, cheese, sherry, old, tannic, tasty8.9 Benriach 21yo 46% Tawnt Port Finish: sweet, luscious8.9 Glenrothes Wemyss 1988 25yo 46% Ginger Spice Single Sherry Butt thick, buttery, sweet, woody8.8 Balvenie "Peat Week" 14yo USA 48.3%: Ben Nevis traditionaly, salty, sherry, peat, dirty, ashMy Peaty Picks (oh what we do for art)9.2 Ballechin Edradour 50ppm SFTC bordeaux cask 2005 11yo 53.4%: varnish yeasty, cheesey lingers paint stripper undies, sulphur, crazy, grows, smoke, creaming soda9.2 Elements of Islay Bw7 53.2%: sausage, demarara, thick, big, spice, cashews, brown sugar, gravy, puckering8.7 Glen Scotia "Double Cask" 46% USA/PX: Ben Nevis Traditionaly, salty hint, smoke whiff8.6 (7) Bowmore OMC 1996 21yo 30ppm refill hogs 50%: smoke, citrious, janola, BBQ sauce, sweetness8.6 (5) Laphroaig Adelphi 2000 17yo 60.6% #700057: rich, burns, full smoke, peat, burnt but sweet8.5 Ardmore Adelphi 1996 21yo 61%: dry, wood smoke, strong 8.5 (7.0) Glenglassaugh Peated Virgin Oak Finish 46%: it's not all about the peat, tasty, balanced8.4 (6.0) Bruichladdich Octomore 8.1 59.3% 167ppm 8yo: peaty, smoke, dry, sappy, bitter8.1 (5.5) Ardmore SMWS 66.107 "Enjoy the Ride" 8yo 60.8%: smokey,dry, woody though pale8.0 Bowmore Adelphi 27yo 1987 refill bourbon hogs 7838 52%: smokey, peanut butter, sweet, lipsmakingWe shall see what we can get stocks of soon for a tasting near you - first Picks of Dramfest tasting will be on 26 and 27 March.Slainthe, Daniel

Bob Campbell’s Wine Diploma Course is coming back to Wellington for two days this year on Sunday 27 May and Sunday 26 August. If you’ve ever wondered what the difference is between good wine and great wine, or how to prolong the life of left over wine or why people use decanters, then a one-day wine course in Wellington may be the ideal time and place to find out. Master of Wine Bob Campbell’s Wine Diploma Course is making a come back to the capital after a hiatus of a couple of years, only this time it’s back at his old stomping ground – Regional Wines & Spirits in the upstairs tasting room. The course has been confirmed to run twice this year and it is anticipated that he will run more courses at Regional Wines & Spirits. Topics to be covered include: • An understanding of wine faults• Food and wine matching• How to determine a wine’s quality• Characteristics of major wine types• How to store wine for optimum quality• How to determine correct serving temperatures• When decanting wine can improve quality• How to prolong the life of leftover wine The one day courses will run from 9am to 5pm at Regional Wines & Spirits in Elice Street, Wellington, and cost $249 per person, which includes, morning and afternoon teas, a bound book of notes, all wines that are tasted and a diploma to take away at the end of. Bookings are online at www.bobcampbell.co.nz